2. “Giving in to the Flow”

One of the key trends that emerged in Balenciaga’s spring 2015 ready-to-wear collection can be described as a sense of purity, calm and gentleness. Giving in to the Flow can be characterized as an antidote to the chaos that overwhelms us in our everyday lives. Our world is fraught with violence, instability in our economies and governments, and extreme and unpredictable weather. This key spring trend, visible across many of the season’s collections, is a soothing, uncomplicated, and pared-back approach; a reaction to the times we find ourselves in. It offers a zen philosophy, urging us to give in to the ebbs and flows of our realities.

Balenciaga Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear, Style.com

As seen in looks 9 and 17 of Balenciaga’s collection, elongated tunics and flowy shirtdresses drape loosely around the body. Unrestrictive, they flow with ease and have a calming effect. The colors are a soft, dull white that remind you of raw, weathered cotton. Both shapes are relaxed. Moving beyond the collection, and expanding on the theme, we see similar underlying qualities in collections by Celine, Haider Ackermann, Hermès and Lanvin. Looks from these designers have used simple silhouettes with graceful long layers, sometimes belted for chic utilitarian appeal. Colors are classically neutral, while materials like ‘crosshatch linen and hopsack weaves speak of sobriety and rustic sensibility…light seersuckers, crisp poplins and sheer materials express pure minimalism.¹’

Above (left to right): 1 Celine; 2–3 Haider Ackermann | Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear, Style.com

Above (left to right): 1–2 Hermes; 3 Isabel Marant | Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear, Style.com

Above (left to right): 1–3 Lanvin | Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear, Style.com

Above (left to right): 1 Christophe Lemaire; 2–3 Loewe | Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear, Style.com

Above (left to right): 1 Lucas Nascimento; 2 Marni; 3 Sportmax | Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear, Style.com

Above (left to right): 1 Rochas; 2 The Row; 3 Zero + Maria Cornejo | Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear, Style.com

Advertising campaigns for Jil Sander, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana from the 1990s

To understand why this trend may have emerged, we can look at two recent periods in the 20th century when dress had changed in reaction to the current political, economic, social and technical climates of the era. As a direct reaction to the turmoil of the late 1960s, the hippie subculture and fashions emerged in the United States. Later, during the recessionary years of the 1990s clothing became simplified as a ‘…reaction against the conspicuous consumption that had characterized the previous decade.²’ At that time ‘clothing design began to reflect a general interest in ecology and spirituality and many designers looked for inspiration to communities whose garments and bodily adornment were not shaped by international fashion trends. Authenticity became the new buzzword and subcultural style and ethnic clothing traditions entered fashion as major influences.²’ Now too, this spring 2015 trend features Japanese-influenced details seen across several collections, such as judo belts, oversized bow details and flowing kimono shapes. ‘Relaxed, wide-leg silhouettes create a nonchalant attitude.¹’ We are clearly looking east, and even to religious purity, for new inspiration.

However, unlike in the past, when silhouettes and major design trends were simplified and heavily influenced by access to materials — the reductive quality of the designs seen in the spring 2015 collections are not so much a reaction to material or physical factors. They are reflections, perhaps, of our mental psyche. Across the collections, the feeling is quiet and contemplative. Materials are free-flowing and loose. Forms are unencumbered and uncomplicated. All of these qualities serenely creating a space for us to escape to.

1. WGSN Catwalks Team, WGSN, http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/54840/page/19, 2014 (accessed January 2015)

2. Mendes. V & De La Haye. A, Fashion Since 1900 (Thames & Hudson Ltd, 1999)