3. The Religion of Balenciaga and Beyond

How Art Influences Fashion: The Religion of Balenciaga and Beyond

Above (L–R): Painting by Francisco de Zurbaran; Balenciaga evening gown; Christian Dior Spring 2014 Couture

When you look at pieces designed by the Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga in the 1960s, it’s clear to see the designer was directly influenced by clerical clothing. But you’ll also see that he was equally influenced by Spanish painters of the 17th century, whose subjects ranged from religious figures to royalty. One such painter, ‘Francisco de Zurbarán was one of the most productive…with a workshop that catered for clients right across Spain. His work was thus familiar to Spaniards from all walks of life, because it was mainly to be found in churches. St Casilda was particularly revered in the north of Spain. Many of Zurbarán’s female saints wear layers of heavy silks, swathes of fabric attached at the shoulder or waist. This device allowed the artist to mix complementary colours and also to show the reflection of light on the surface of shiny textiles. In this particular instance, he contrasted a mustard-yellow underskirt with a more acidic yellow drape and a turquoise overdress. Balenciaga also used these colours frequently, and played with drapery in a similar way.¹’ The yellow and light green silk taffeta evening dress (summer 1961) ‘recalls the bunching and puffing of the attire of Zurbarán’s female saints.¹’ This is a shape still being explored by designers today (see Dior spring 2014 couture images).

Above (left to right): Painting by Francisco de Zurbaran; Balenciaga evening gown; Balenciaga wedding dress

Above (left to right): 1–2 Balenciaga Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear; 3 Balenciaga Fall 2013 Ad, Style.com

It’s also clear to see how Balenciaga was directly influenced by religion and clerical clothing. In Spain ‘immense Baroque churches dwarf the tiniest villages, and their interiors often contain elaborate chapels and overpowering altarpieces. Even when the interior is fairly austere, images or paintings of the saints and the Virgin Mary abound.¹’…‘A portrait of a Mercederian monk reveals how closely timeless monastic dress may be equated with the simple modernity of Balenciaga’s later designs.¹’…‘He pared away superfluous ornament and championed pure, simple, sculptural lines…¹’ This influence is clear, as seen in the black evening gown and cape (1967). And again in the wedding dress designed for María del Carmen Martínez-Bordiú, Francisco Franco's granddaughter and future Duchess of Cadiz (1972). Alexander Wang, Balenciaga’s current creative director references these same shapes in the spring 2015 ready-to-wear collection as well. Perhaps it’s not at all a coincidence that for Wang’s first advertising campaign for Balenciaga (fall 2013), religious undertones result from wanting to focus on the craft, detail and texture of the clothes, instead of the model’s face.

Above (left to right): Dolce & Gabbana; Balenciaga; Alexander McQueen, Style.com

On the opposite end of the spectrum, bolder and more ornate examples of religion in fashion can be seen in collections like that of Dolce and Gabbana’s fall 2013 ready-to-wear, or even (Nicolas Ghesquière’s collection for) Balenciaga’s spring 2012 ready-to-wear. Here, the influence can be seen in the graphic prints depicting stained glass designs. While Sarah Burton’s creations for Alexander McQueen’s fall 2013 ready-to-wear comment on the excesses of Catholicism. But religion’s influence on fashion has not only been restricted to the collections. Magazines have created countless images and editorial features with religious themes as well. No matter how subtle or heavy-handed, religion continues to inspire and influence fashion because of its social and cultural impact on our lives. It’s an unwavering and universal theme for us all.

Fashion editorials (left to right): Harper's Bazaar Russia; Numero Magazine; W Magazine 

1. Ellis Miller. L, Balenciaga (V&A Publications, 2007)